Norhoz

Cunningly disguised as a giant pillowcase, I hiked up one of Kabul’s hills to join the celebration of Muslim New Year. Bizarrely, atop this particular hill lies an empty cement swimming pool, built by the Russians. Children in their sparkly New Year’s clothes raced around inside, sliding on worn shoes down the slope to the deep end, and playing soccer in the flat section. On today, one of the most festive holidays of the Afghan calendar, the people of Kabul were out in force, enjoying the first spring-like day of the year. I’d never seen so many Afghan women in one place, and they smiled broadly at me in greeting, their burqas thrown back over their heads.

My pillowcase disguise fooled no one, and I was soon swarmed by children pleading for me to take their pictures, or to buy some chewing gum. I shot a few pics with my digital, and the kids were delighted to view the finished product on the LCD display. Two trailed shyly after my friends and I long after the others had given up hope of more photos. The eldest finally got the nerve up to try out some words in English. To my shock and surprise, he got beyond the ubiquitous “how are you?”, which every Afghan seems to know, and was able to respond when I replied.

However, today a child celebrating on a different hill stepped on a mine – just a bang and a puff of smoke on the horizon.