Babur Gardens

The few guidebooks that exist about Kabul all rave about the Babur Gardens, built in the 16th century at the behest of Zahir-ed-din Mohammad Babur Shah, the first Mogul emperor.

Whatever.

Destroyed by war and neglect (bullet holes scar the exterior walls of nearby buildings), the renovation of the gardens was scheduled for completion by summer 2003.

Surprise! They’re not done yet.

But there is a very nice wall around the "garden." There are some trees, a few scraggly and stunted rose bushes, and a few bits of browning grass, but this does nothing to prevent dust from billowing along the hillside. I wrap my scarf around my head, crunching dirt between my teeth, and inwardly curse that I had to pay $2 to get in here.

But then we trudge up the hill to a broken-down marble edifice – a mosque also built in the 16th century, wrecked, and restored. There’s a patch of lush green lawn just above it, and we discover the source, a small canal, which empties into a concrete swimming pool. Boys are splashing about inside, but when they see the foreigners they swarm me and practice their English.